dead delta: the unfinished basement

 

This is the fifth installment of a photographic series called dead delta, which examines the shuttered, decaying, and derelict structures in Delta Junction, Alaska where I live. 

the unfinished basement

“WIT POWR” scribbled on a wall in an unfinished basement.

“WIT POWR” scribbled on a wall in an unfinished basement.

While walking beside an open field on Nistler Road one summer day I passed an open concrete structure partially cloaked by overgrown brush. I looked inside and saw 6-foot tall shrubs growing through the drain in the slab and a seemingly intact well pump lying beside the well head. It looked like the basement of a home that was never finished, and I thought this abandoned construction project would be an interesting subject for my dead delta series, even though I supposed it could still be resuscitated someday.

When I returned with my camera, I hopped inside and noticed some crude scribble on one of the walls. It was faded and misspelled, but it exclaimed boldly in capital letters: “WIT POWR”. No other graffiti adorned the walls, so the words struck me in a way they might not have if they had instead been carved on a bathroom stall full of expletives. I stood there puzzling over how someone who couldn’t even spell some basic 5-letter words could feel so confident declaring their racial superiority. But, then again, maybe they didn’t feel so confident expressing their beliefs and that’s why they wrote it in a forgotten place where no one would catch them. I lost my appetite for creating artsy images and left without taking any of the shots I had envisioned beforehand.

The graffiti made me reflect on other instances of racism and xenophobia I’ve observed in my rural Alaska town. I’ve witnessed an elderly man casually telling an elderly woman over coffee in the crowded dining area of our lone grocery store that all black people are inherently depraved, and I’ve overheard the N-word while shopping in the same store. I’ve heard many locals badmouth “the Russians” (immigrants mostly from Ukraine who make up a substantial portion of the town population) as well as the Puerto Ricans who serve in the military at Fort Greely and their families. When I worked for the Missile Defense Agency, one of my coworkers told a racist joke about Alaskan Natives to a room full of mostly older white men during a meeting and almost everyone laughed, including the boss. Just a few months ago, a crowd of ill-informed residents packed a city council meeting in reaction to a proposal that would have allowed an expected grand total of one refugee—who already had family in the area—to resettle in the community, with some residents clamoring that Delta Junction would be turned into a sanctuary city. (Obviously, those people didn’t know what “sanctuary city” actually means.) Needless to say, the proposal was rejected with many residents proud that they prevented Sharia law, migrant caravans, and sanctuary city status coming to Delta Junction, Alaska—or whatever irrational fear it was they conveniently selected so they didn’t have to say out loud that they didn’t want any foreigners or people of color in their town.

But there’s nothing special about racism in my town because racism is everywhere in America. Certainly, there is plenty of goodwill in my community, but ignoring racism only allows it to thrive. Racism doesn’t rely on logic to survive, just fear, the force of peer pressure, and the inertia of habit. It’s time to speak up and tell your racist friends and family that their behavior is unacceptable; they may not listen to protesters in the streets, but they might listen to you. Don’t support the WIT POWR movement with your vote, either, even if it means sacrificing on other issues you care about, because the concept of WIT POWR is antithetical to the Constitution and every amendment guaranteeing Americans our basic rights. If you haven’t realized by now that the current president does not have any intention of faithfully supporting and defending the Constitution of the United States, nor does he have the slightest bit of empathy for other people, you’re delusional. One day ago he used physical force to clear protesters peacefully exercising their First Amendment rights so he could pose with a Bible in front of a church because he thinks the people in his base are so stupid they’ll fall for a blatantly sycophantic publicity stunt and won’t care about the inhumanity in his threats to unleash the military on American citizens. He directly panders to the WIT POWR voters because they make up a sizable portion of his “base” and the rest of his base doesn’t seem to mind. If you’ve supported him to this point without being revolted by his behavior or his woeful incompetence, be revolted now.

Peace.

Tall brush has grown around the structure and a portable set of wooden stairs still lean against a wall.

Tall brush has grown around the structure and a portable set of wooden stairs still lean against a wall.

A well pump still lies inside the structure.

A well pump still lies inside the structure.

 

Primrose Ridge In The Spring (Denali National Park)

 
View of Denali at sunset from Primrose Ridge.

View of Denali at sunset from Primrose Ridge.

During the summer in Denali National Park, private vehicles are not allowed beyond Savage River at mile 15 along the park road. However, in the spring before May 20 (when transit bus service normally starts in non-pandemic years) the road opens to private vehicles as far as the Teklanika River rest stop at mile 30. The park is popular with locals in the spring, with many visiting to observe wildlife, bike, hike, and take advantage of free camping before the tourists arrive. My favorite place to hike in the spring is Primrose Ridge, which features easy hiking terrain, great views of Denali, and many interesting rock outcroppings. But be prepared for the wind on top!

Last weekend I spent two beautiful, sunny days hiking around Primrose Ridge. I started hiking early in the morning, climbing up from a spur ridge that starts near a rest area around mile 17. There’s an unmaintained social trail leading from the road most of the way to the top, and it’s definitely worth finding the trail to minimize bushwhacking. (Hint: It starts just past the rest area across the road from the end of a gravel foot path.) Near the top, the lingering snow patches were still thoroughly frozen and I found hiking over them was easier than hiking on the tundra.

Rock outcropping on top of Primrose Ridge.

Rock outcropping on top of Primrose Ridge.

The top of Primrose Ridge is very broad, stretching over three miles from east to west between the Savage River and Sanctuary River. Across its length and along the several spur ridges leading to the top there are dozens of photogenic rock outcroppings, which also serve as wind breaks. Denali can also be seen from across the entire length of the ridge, making for endless photo opportunities. Mount Deborah looms to the east outside the park, appearing a little smaller than Denali but still majestic. There are steep canyons to explore on the north side of Primrose Ridge, and Healy is close enough to the northeast that you can pick up some spotty cell service.

View of Denali from the high point of Primrose Ridge, aka Mount Margaret.

View of Denali from the high point of Primrose Ridge, aka Mount Margaret.

I had hoped to find some animals on top of Primrose Ridge to photograph, but I failed to spot any. I’m trying to add a backcountry “animal & Denali” shot to my portfolio but finding an animal in the right spot at the right time is quite difficult. Oh well, maybe next time.

After exploring and climbing some of the rock outcroppings, I scouted a location to shoot the sunset. A few hikers from Fairbanks reached the top in the afternoon, and I chatted with them while they ate lunch. After they began descending, I nestled on a rock in the warm sun and took a nap.

View to the northwest from Primrose Ridge at sunset. Somewhere in the distance is the Stampede Trail and that famous bus.

View to the northwest from Primrose Ridge at sunset. Somewhere in the distance is the Stampede Trail and that famous bus.

As sunset neared, I set up my camera for my planned shot of Denali. With my camera taking photos on a timer, I hiked several hundred feet away and stood in front of the mountain as the sun went down and the light became progressively warmer. While the light was warm, the breeze certainly wasn’t; I took my jacket and mittens off for the picture, and by the time I finished posing my hands were numb.

I returned to my camera just in time to set up another shot facing the sun as it started to graze the horizon. I realized the same area wouldn’t work for a sunrise shot of Denali since the sun wouldn’t be shining on the foreground until later in the morning, so I continued hiking under the twilight toward the west end of Primrose Ridge in search of another perspective. Sometime before 2 a.m. I found a spot that would work for a similar “long-distance” selfie, but I hoped as I dozed off in my sleeping bag that I would find some sheep on the ridge to photograph when I awoke later, instead.

Denali at sunrise from the western end of Primrose Ridge. I meant to pose on the edge of the ridge for scale but missed my spot.

Denali at sunrise from the western end of Primrose Ridge. I meant to pose on the edge of the ridge for scale but missed my spot.

 

I woke up at 4 a.m. and there were no sheep, so I set my camera on a timer again and began hiking to get in place. I reached what I thought was the right spot and began posing, knowing my camera was taking a picture every minute from over a thousand feet away. But the section of ridge I meant to pose on was so featureless and looked so different when I grew closer with the sun shining on it that I hiked too high up it, just out of the camera frame. If I hadn’t been cold and tired I probably wouldn’t have made that mistake. Disappointed but mostly too tired and cold to care, I crawled back in my sleeping bag and went to sleep until mid-morning. After I awoke again, I packed up and started hiking back to the spur ridge I had climbed the day before. I passed a caribou antler but still didn’t spot any animals on the way down.

This summer, bus service will likely not start until July 1 if it starts at all, and it sounds like backcountry campers will be allowed to continue driving as far as mile 30 until then, so I’m planning on another trip up Primrose Ridge after it turns green and much of the remaining snow melts. Maybe the animals will show up by then.

If you’re interested in hiking or camping on Primrose Ridge, you can find more information on the Denali National Park website.